Obviously fall has arrived and for
a while at least, I have joined the ranks of the unemployed. This is good though, at least for now.
I have time to work on this house, to write, to climb. Working at CREC was a
great experience, but the schedule of eight days on-six days off, didn’t work
for me. I couldn’t even come close to balancing all those top-heavy aspects of
life. Who ever does?
Fall--apples,
carved pumpkins, changing leaves. It’s time to get out last years leftover
candy corn and put it in a bowl in the kitchen, time to start drinking tea
instead of ice water, and time to boulder as much as possible while the
conditions are good and the forest roads are open.
Two
Sundays in a row I’ve gone to Cherry canyon with Matt, Brian, and Spence. No
one outside of Flagstaff seems to know the brilliance of this place. Even
though Cherry Canyon houses what is arguably some of the best limestone
bouldering in the country, I’ve never seen another group of people there. Right
now it seems most are drawn to the various super-sized roofs to the west and
Cherry has fallen to the wayside. Even though I have lived in Flagstaff for a
year now, I still haven’t figured out how to climb those roofs. I’m getting
better, but I feel at home at places like The Glorias, Middle Elden, West
Elden, and of course on the towering bulges of Cherry.
Since
the first time I went to Cherry last spring and set eyes on The Bulge Wall, I
have wanted to try Uptown Vandal. This is a boulder problem that could only
happen here. A couple easy roof moves lead to a sloping pocket, heelhook, and a
strenuous move to a flat, half-pad undercling. A bump off a bad crimp leads to
a better one and the beginning of a highball V7.
I’ve
tried Uptown Vandal maybe a dozen times now. Yesterday was the first time I’d
tried it early in the day and on my first solid effort from the bottom I got
into the crux of the stand start. I surprised myself. I gave one more try, but the
first try had drained most of my strength and I got to the same place. Still, I
will climb Uptown Vandal the next time I try it. Until then it’s clouding my
thoughts, as boulders often do.
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