Well now, it’s the holiday season
and snow is in the forecast. Beta Bouldering’s grand opening was about two
weeks ago and I’ve been in there quite a bit since. People seem pretty psyched
to have a new climbing venue in town and the after-work sessions are growing.
This upcoming storm, which seem to carry with it the long anticipated beginning
of Flagstaff’s winter, will almost certainly close the forest roads and make
desert pilgrimages a necessity. Though I’ve gotten closer on my project in
Cherry Canyon, I’m excited to have an excuse to go to the desert. I have an
ambitious tick-list this year and I’m psyched to get to work.
I
crossed another problem off my lifetime tick-list just before Thanksgiving.
Christina and I had plans to spend the holiday in Del Mar, Ca. I could not
resist a stop at Black Mountain to try Bang On.
I’ve been able to do all the moves
on Bang On for over a year, and have been able to do the stand for four.
Because I live in Arizona, and Black Mountain season overlaps with the season
here, I don’t get out there as often as I’d like. So I included a couple pads
and convinced Christina I’d be able to do it in just a few tries. I wasn’t sure
if the lower gate was closed, so the two-hour detour was a gamble.
But the gate was open, and though
we had to walk from the campground gate, the detour was worth it. Bang On,
though it is only four moves long, has some of the most bizarre beta of
anything I’ve climbed. Sure, there is the iconic cross, and that strange toothy
crimp. I find the most important piece however, is how I grab the start hold.
Crystals need to be between the right fingers, hands must be at the right
angle. The flappers on my palm and little finger are a map to the first
move.
After about a dozen tries and a
little bloodshed, I sent Bang On. I’m still psyched about it. I’d tried the
problem the fist time I went to Black Mountain. It looked climbable, but felt
impossible. Now that I’ve been focusing on climbing for just a few months I’ve
cruised past my old performance plateau and into new territory. I don’t even
really know how to behave. I flash people’s projects accidently as they watch
between burns. I don’t mean to, it
just happens. As a rule, I don’t let go. So for that, I apologize. But hey, I’m
just as stunned as anyone.
Anyway, here is a video of Bang On
